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Sandbox Physics

M100 · Fluid mechanics

Shallow-Water Waves & Dam Break

Does a dam-break flood front move at the speed of small water waves? No. Small waves travel at a speed set by the local depth: the deeper the water, the faster they go. A dam-break front is a large, nonlinear wave, and its speed comes from the full solution. When the flood runs onto dry ground, the front moves at twice the small-wave speed of the original reservoir.

Open a gate, launch a pulse, hold a still lake over a ridge or look at a hydraulic jump. Scrub through the finite-volume solution, compare it with the exact dam-break reference and refine the mesh. The water in the flume plus what has flowed out through the ends should stay constant.

Interactive modelShallow-Water Waves & Dam Break
Solution timeReady\text{Ready}
Gauge depthReady\text{Ready}
Depth-mean velocityReady\text{Ready}
Discharge per widthReady\text{Ready}
Local long-wave speedReady\text{Ready}
Gauge Froude numberReady\text{Ready}
Stored water volumeReady\text{Ready}
Net exported volumeReady\text{Ready}
Maximum Courant numberReady\text{Ready}
Cell widthReady\text{Ready}
Solver stepsReady\text{Ready}
Mean depth error against exact solutionReady\text{Ready}
Volume integrated from raw scanReady\text{Ready}
Recorded stationsReady\text{Ready}
Force or volume balance residualReady\text{Ready}
Model stateReady\text{Ready}

Physics tutorial

Waves, wetting fronts and conservative numerics

BackgroundThis experiment tells you something only when the flume geometry, the conserved quantities and the recorded data agree.

Why it mattersYou connect a flume to quantitative checks, such as the exact dam-break solution and the volume balance, and then test where the model holds and where it fails.

Start with the essentials

Focus question
Does the flood on screen obey the conservation laws?
One-sentence intuition
Compare the full physical model, its approximation and the separately recorded data.

Core mathematical model

Conservation of depth and momentum

ht+(hu)x=0(hu)t+(hu2+gh22)x=−ghbx\begin{aligned}h_t+(hu)_x&=0\\(hu)_t+\left(hu^2+\frac{gh^2}{2}\right)_x&=-ghb_x\end{aligned}

The flow is hydrostatic and depth-averaged in a channel of constant width. The bed enters as a source term in the momentum equation.

Local speeds of small waves

λ±=u±gh\lambda_\pm=u\pm\sqrt{gh}

A flood shock does not in general travel like a small long wave. The front over a dry bed moves at yet another speed.

Froude number

Fr=∣u∣gh\mathrm{Fr}=\frac{|u|}{\sqrt{gh}}

In subcritical flow, signals can travel both upstream and downstream. Supercritical flow carries both families of signals downstream. A dry cell has no Froude number.

Volume conservation with flow through the ends

V=W∑ihiΔxV(t)+∫0tW(qR−qL) ds=V(0)\begin{aligned}V&=W\sum_i h_i\Delta x\\V(t)+\int_0^t W(q_R-q_L)\,ds&=V(0)\end{aligned}

Water leaving through the ends can change the volume in the flume without breaking conservation. Scanning the raw cell depths gives a separate estimate of the integral.

Adaptive step and grid error

CFL=ΔtΔxmax⁡i(∣ui∣+ghi)≤0.4Eh=1N∑i∣hi−hexact(xi,t)∣\begin{aligned}\mathrm{CFL}&=\frac{\Delta t}{\Delta x}\max_i\left(|u_i|+\sqrt{gh_i}\right)\leq0.4\\E_h&=\frac1N\sum_i|h_i-h_{\mathrm{exact}}(x_i,t)|\end{aligned}

The first-order scheme smears shocks out. The mean depth error is available only for a flat-bed dam break, before the waves reach the ends.

Stationary hydraulic jump

qL=qR=qq2hL+ghL22=q2hR+ghR22\begin{aligned}q_L&=q_R=q\\\frac{q^2}{h_L}+\frac{gh_L^2}{2}&=\frac{q^2}{h_R}+\frac{gh_R^2}{2}\end{aligned}

The preset balances the mass and momentum fluxes across a depth increase that satisfies the entropy condition. The numerical solution smears the jump over several cells.

Common difficulties

A reference curve is not a measurement

Typical misconceptionThe reference curve on screen is a measured result.

Better mental modelOnly the sensor channels you record count as observations, and changing the setup clears them. The perturbations are deterministic, so they give no statistical certification.

Run the experiment

  1. 01

    Release the gate

    Compare the wet-bed and dry-bed dam presets, and move the time slider.

    What to observe: The rarefaction, the shock and the dry front all come from the same balance laws.
  2. 02

    Refine and compare

    Double the cell count, keeping the same initial state and time.

    What to observe: The reference curve stays the same, and the numerical smearing shrinks.
  3. 03

    Test a still lake

    Select Lake over a ridge, then change the ridge height.

    What to observe: The well-balanced hydrostatic reconstruction keeps this lake at rest, with no false currents.
  4. 04

    Check the volume balance

    Compare reflecting and transmissive ends, and acquire every cell.

    What to observe: The volume in the flume plus the net outflow stays constant. The raw heights integrate into a separate volume estimate that carries its own sensor perturbations.
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