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Sandbox Physics

Fluid dynamics · water-wave diffraction

Ripple Tank

Orbit the exaggerated height surface, then inspect the same field from above and sample its probe history. Compare one or two point sources, one or two slits, a disk obstacle, fixed-height reflection, rigid-wall reflection, and outgoing boundaries. Pause, step, or switch off the drive without erasing the waves.

Interactive modelRipple Tank
Wave-equation energy proxy (not joules)0 m4 s−20\,\mathrm{m^4\,s^{-2}}
Simulation time0.0000 s0.0000\,\mathrm{s}
Nominal wavelength λ0\lambda_00.50 m0.50\,\mathrm{m}
Resolved slit ratio ah/λ0a_h/\lambda_01.041.04
Grid opening aha_h0.522 m0.522\,\mathrm{m}
Probe height η\eta0.000 mm0.000\,\mathrm{mm}
Field height RMS ηrms\eta_{\mathrm{rms}}0.000 mm0.000\,\mathrm{mm}
Probe position (xp,yp)(x_p,y_p)(3.94, 1.52) m(3.94,\,1.52)\,\mathrm{m}
Courant number CC0.1020.102

Physics tutorial

Ripple Tank: how one opening redraws a wavefront

BackgroundIn the linear, small-amplitude limit, water height is a signed scalar field. A driven line launches an approximately plane wave. Barrier nodes are pinned to zero height except at the opening; this is not the no-through-flow boundary of a full fluid tank.

Why it mattersThe same diffraction logic connects water, sound, and light; a ripple tank makes wavelength, boundaries, and wavefront geometry directly visible.

Start with the essentials

Focus question
Why does narrowing an opening make the transmitted wave spread through a wider angle?
One-sentence intuition
Spreading is controlled not by slit width aa alone, but by its ratio to wavelength λ\lambda.

Core mathematical model

Damped wave equation

∂2η∂t2+2β∂η∂t=c2∇2η\frac{\partial^2\eta}{\partial t^2}+2\beta\frac{\partial\eta}{\partial t}=c^2\nabla^2\eta

Spatial curvature restores the surface toward equilibrium while damping reduces amplitude during propagation.

Frequency, speed, and wavelength

λ0=cf\lambda_0=\frac{c}{f}

The readout is the nominal wavelength of the undamped model; damping and the finite grid alter actual propagation. At fixed speed, higher frequency shortens this reference scale.

Grid-resolved opening

ah=NopenΔy,Δy=369 ma_h=N_{\mathrm{open}}\Delta y,\qquad \Delta y=\frac{3}{69}\,\mathrm{m}

The opening changes in discrete nodes. Its drawing and readout share the solver mask; the width describes the intervals represented by open nodes, not a sub-grid wall location.

The physical probe clock

tn=nΔt,Δt=1240 st_n=n\Delta t,\qquad \Delta t=\frac{1}{240}\,\mathrm{s}

Every solver step records a timestamped height in a fixed eight-second plot. Display frame rate does not change sampling. Per-frame advancement is capped during stalls, so simulation time need not follow wall-clock time.

Single-slit spreading scale

sin⁡θ∼λa\sin\theta\sim\frac{\lambda}{a}

An opening comparable to one wavelength spreads strongly sideways. This is a scaling guide, not a replacement for the full field.

Common difficulties

Color is signed water height

Typical misconceptionThe brighter color always means more energy and the darker color means no wave.

Better mental modelThe two colors represent crests and troughs. Energy depends on squared amplitude and cannot be read directly from the sign of the color.

A narrow slit does not create energy

Typical misconceptionWider spreading means the slit amplified the transmitted wave.

Better mental modelThe barrier redistributes transmitted energy by angle and reflects part of the incident wave; wider spreading does not mean larger total energy.

Run the experiment

  1. 01

    Begin with the wide opening

    Choose Wide slit and wait for the wavefront to cross.

    What to observe: The central transmitted front remains mostly plane, with strong bending confined near the two edges.
  2. 02

    Shrink the opening toward one wavelength

    Choose Narrow slit and compare the ah/λ0a_h/\lambda_0 readout.

    What to observe: Nearly circular fronts emerge behind the opening, and probes far to the side begin recording an oscillation.
  3. 03

    Measure while paused

    Pause and advance half a second at a time until transmitted waves reach the probe. Move the probe, switch off Drive the source, and keep advancing.

    What to observe: Moving starts a trace at the new location without clearing waves. After the drive stops, existing waves continue travelling and decaying. One step advances exactly one solver step.
  4. 04

    Shorten only the wavelength

    Keep the opening fixed and choose Short waves.

    What to observe: The same opening becomes wider relative to wavelength, so sideways spreading weakens.

Conceptual inspiration: FluidMotion. Original simulations and graphics; the model limits are described above.

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